GUWAHATI, March 8— The famous muga silk industry in Assam is fast losing its credibility, both inside and outside the State, as large scale adulteration threatens to turn the industry into a farce. The situation is such that the industry may collapse any day, trade watchers say. For quite a few years now, the muga silk industry in the State has been witness to adulteration. Cheap tassar yarn is mixed with muga to make products that are passed off as ‘pure’ muga. Polyester yarn is mixed with muga on the borders of cloth, experts say.
The driving force behind rampant adulteration is the price factor. While raw muga silk comes for as much as Rs 3,500 a kg. tassar is available at rates from Rs 1,300 to Rs 2,200 per kg. the experts say. Naturally, the demand for muga yarn is declining in Assam. Experts do not want to blame anybody for the situation. “It is the trend since customers are not willing to pay the price for pure muga,” they explain. Thus, while customers may initially be happy to have got themselves a piece of pure muga material, it is only after the first wash that the real character of the material becomes evident. That is when the starch is washed off.
Till recently, the authorities had not taken much notice of this adulteration since there were hardly any muga exports. But with the market becoming more receptive of Assam’s ‘golden fabric’, things are set to improve. The Central Silk Board (CSB), under the Ministry of Textiles, has now decided to set up a certification centre in Guwahati to ensure quality control. The approval for the centre has already been given and laboratory equipment is being procured for the silk testing unit. The idea behind the centre is to ensure that the customers are not fooled. The centre is expected to be ready by this year.
According to CSB deputy secretary Sarat Deori, the main purpose behind the certification centre is to safeguard the muga industry. Similar centres are already in existence in other parts of the country, he said. Muga producers, wanting to get quality certification for their products, can get them tested at the centre, he said. The centre will also make the people aware about the qualities of pure muga. The CSB has taken several other measures to sustain the muga industry and even improve it. Several awareness campaigns on quality concepts have already been organised in the State, particularly in Sualkuchi. It is also promoting the use of motorised muga silk reeling cum twisting machines and motorised spinning machines by offering 50 per cent subsidies.
According to Deori, till recently, these machines were being brought from Coimbatore. But now, they are being produced locally by CSB approved local entrepreneurs. The use of these machines have resulted in improved quality and productivity in mugas industry. New designs in the fabric are also being introduced with the help of the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, Deori said.